Itinerary

Diving at Gordon Rocks 

Our day kicked off bright and early with an exhilarating item on our bucket list: diving at Gordon Rocks. Situated on the northeastern side of Santa Cruz, this eroded volcanic crater boasts an underwater world that's truly a diver's paradise, albeit not for the faint-hearted. 

Fondly nicknamed "the washing machine" due to its robust currents, Gordon Rocks demands a high level of diving expertise. Despite gaining quite some diving experience thanks to our annual week-long diving trips, we found the experience to be quite challenging – a testament to the site's intensity.

Find some valuable insights and technical details on our dives we did day 2 and 4 here. 

We chose the company shark bay - mainly due to not having many others to chose from, because we booked late. I would not recommend them - they didn't brief us well and the dive instructors were not attentive, particularly not under water. Check the link above to make sure you don't make some of the mistakes we made while diving.  

Nonetheless, we ultimately felt grateful for the opportunity to dive in such unique waters. Witnessing the abundance of rays, turtles, and the captivating presence of various sharks – including Galapagos and hammerhead sharks – added a layer of enchantment to the underwater spectacle.

Las Grietas: A Hidden Natural Gem 

After our deep-sea adventure, we returned to our hotel to change before embarking on our next escapade – Las Grietas. Translating to "The Cracks," Las Grietas is a slender crevice in the earth, unveiling a crystal-clear swimming haven extending over 100 meters. Renowned as one of the Galapagos' most unique spots for swimming and snorkeling, Las Grietas can be explored independently.

The walk to Las Grietas is not to be underestimated, as the trail can be quite demanding due to the scorching sun. To make the most of your visit, ensure you have plenty of water, wear a hat, and opt for sturdy shoes like sneakers instead of flip-flops to navigate the rocky terrain.

Walking to Las Grietas you will also pass Los Alemanes Beach, where you can relax and enjoy some beach time and the pink salt flats -a notable natural phenomena to admire. 

Here are some key tips for Las Grietas:

• Booking a tour with a naturalist guide to access Las Grietas is mandatory, available at the entrance.
• Tours start from 7:30 AM and run until 4:30 PM.
• Guided tours cost $10 (cash only) and don't require advanced booking.
• A short taxi boat ride ($1 each way) and a 15-minute walk(that feels like 45 due to the heat) are necessary to reach Las Grietas.
• Bring your own snorkeling gear, as rentals aren't available.
• Wear hiking sandals or shoes due to uneven lava rock trails.
• Two restaurants and bathrooms are situated at the entrance of Las Grietas.
• Note that you'll only have access to one of the three sections on any given tour.

Now, let's address whether the visit is worth it. It's a bit of a mixed bag. There's no doubt it's stunning, but our initial experience was slightly marred by the crowds and limited space for changing and swimming. Opting for the last tour of the day turned out to be a genius move. With the area mostly to ourselves, we enjoyed the serenity that makes Las Grietas truly special. However, after about 30 minutes, you'll likely have experienced all it has to offer.

Almar: A Stunning Terrace and mediocre food

As the sun gracefully set, we followed our local host's recommendation and made our way to Almar. This enchanting restaurant boasts a terrace right by the water, providing a front-row seat to baby sharks' hunting and birds fishing. While the food was disappointingly average – with even the fish turning out quite dry – the warmth of the service and the picturesque surroundings somewhat compensated for the culinary letdown. The sun, sea breeze, and stunning vistas made for an unforgettable dining experience despite the meal's shortcomings.

North Seymour's eel garden and diverse marine life reminded us of the Galápagos' aquatic wonders even amid the demanding currents. After a brief break on the boat, we eagerly prepared for our second dive.

Our descent into the depths of Mosquera introduced us to an underwater haven bursting with life. Amidst the currents, an array of marine species thrived in their natural habitat. We marveled at a cleaning station for reef sharks, witnessing these majestic creatures seeking sanctuary and interaction. The ocean floor was adorned with starfish, their intricate forms adding to the spectacle. We were fortunate to spot hammerhead sharks, green turtles, eagle rays, manta rays, and golden cownose rays, among other exotic inhabitants.

Navigating Mosquera's currents demanded expertise, as the underwater landscape dazzled with its variety of species and intricate topography. From close encounters with sharks to the magical experience of swimming with golden cownose rays, Mosquera's allure was undeniable.

After our dives, we enjoyed a satisfying lunch on the boat before heading back to the harbor.

Exploring the Galapagos Giant Tortoises at El Chato Ranch and the Lava Tunnels

As the rest of the group returned to Puerto Ayora, we requested the diving center to drop us off in the middle of the island so we could visit the Tortoise Center of El Chato, a private and family-owned ecological reserve, 45-minute drive from Puerto Ayora. 

Before going down to the Cente, we took a short stop to see Los Gemelos after which we went back into our taxi and drove to the center. 

Dedicated to preserving the Galapagos giant tortoises, the ranch offered a unique encounter with these gentle giants.

While self-guided tours were once an option, guided tours were now mandatory. Upon arrival, a knowledgeable naturalist guide joined us, leading us through the sanctuary. With expertise and enthusiasm, our guide pointed out tortoises in their natural habitat, allowing us to observe and photograph these majestic creatures.

El Chato Ranch offered more than 'just' tortoises; it held the opportunity to explore underground lava tunnels. These tunnels, born from ancient lava flows, revealed a subterranean ecosystem distinct from the island's surface.

Venturing into one of these tunnels, stretching around 200m, was like entering a different world illuminated by small lamps. The uneven terrain added to the adventure, but caution was necessary due to slippery spots.

As we marveled at the intricate geological formations, we recognized the significance of this slice of the Galapagos' geological history—a story carved by ancient volcanic forces.

Some practical tips enriched our experience:

• Staying Hydrated: We carried plenty of water and refilled our bottles.
• Weather Preparedness: We had sun protection and rain gear on hand.
• Comfortable Footwear: Wearing socks with sneakers ensured a comfortable walk.
• Mosquito Defense: Insect repellent helped keep mosquitoes at bay.
• Time Allocation: We set aside around 1-2 hours to fully explore El Chato Ranch.
• Getting there and back: Take a taxi and ask them to wait for you

A Walk to Tortuga Bay

After our return at around  3pm, our clothes clung to us, still holding the traces of our invigorating activity. In search of solace, we collectively decided to make our way to Tortuga Bay, where the promise of a refreshing swim beckoned.

As we embarked on our hike, we found ourselves at the threshold of a small hut nestled at the base of a stairway. Here, we were courteously asked to register before commencing our journey. Equipped with the necessary information, we were bestowed with insightful knowledge about the beach's regulations—specifically, where activities like swimming, kayaking, and surfing were permitted, along with the essential guidelines to follow. It's important to mention that within Tortuga Bay's confines, the amenities of cafes, kiosks, and refreshment stations remain absent, and restrooms are conspicuously missing. Thus, we arrived prepared and ready for our visit.

The charm of this destination resides in the presence of two distinctive beaches: Playa Brava (Brave Beach), characterized by its lengthy coastline and dancing waves, and Playa Mansa (Tame Beach), a serene haven untouched by crashing waters. The name "Tortuga Bay" derives from its significance as a nesting sanctuary for turtles. Thoughtful signs, thoughtfully positioned, protect these nesting grounds from unintended disturbances.

A pivotal rule we dutifully adhered to was to conclude our time by 6:00 PM, aligning with the turtles' arrival onshore for nesting. The beach's ecosystem plays host to captivating marine iguanas, enchanting creatures that often seek refuge beneath the mangroves lining the beach's right flank. Remarkably, these same creatures are known to grace the waters of the adjacent lagoon with their presence.

On Playa Mansa, seizing an opportune moment, we opted to rent kayaks, allowing us to leisurely paddle around the bay for an hour. During our kayak adventure, we were rewarded with the sight of turtles, swimming iguanas, and the graceful hunt of pelicans—a symphony of nature's beauty.

As the sun descended gracefully below the horizon, casting its final strokes of color across the canvas of the sky, we reluctantly bid our farewell to the beach. Carrying cherished memories of a tranquil afternoon in Tortuga Bay, we left with hearts brimming with serenity. 

Savoring Culinary Delights at El Muelle de Darwin

As the day transitioned into evening, we took a taxi back to Puerto Ayora. After packing for the next day, we treated ourselves to dinner at El Muelle de Darwin. Here, we relished in fresh and healthy cuisine, which turned out to be among the best we encountered on Santa Cruz. The attentive servers and delectable dishes created a dining experience superior to our previous two nights. The only drawback was the restaurant's concrete-heavy ambiance, causing some discomfort from the evening heat.