As I describe each day, I also qualify and rate everything to indicate whether I would recommend doing what we did from 1 to 4.
Below you can see the graphs i will post for all activities and locations we visited.
We hired our car from rentalcars.com and the company we rented from was United Rent a Car.
There offices were right in the airport hall and all administration was super simple and efficiently handled, the team working there was super kind.
What kind of car should I get?
After reading many blogs about what kind of car we should rent we decided for the most basic car: We hired the "mini-class", a 4 doors Hyundai i 10 car. And it turned out, that for what itinerary we had planned, it worked well. We were even concluding, that because we were driving a smaller and lighter car, navigating challenging terrains with steep gradients became significantly easier. This was thanks to the car's engine, was better matched to its weight compared to the bigger cars, that you could rent, that would have maybe been to heavy. When getting the car, make sure it has a spare tire that is ok.
We were advised by the car rental not to stop at Calama, and drive directly to San Pedro, because there had been some robberies in Calama of tourist stopping for gaz.
We did as told and after loading the car, embarked on the scenic journey from Calama to San Pedro de Atacama. We were greeted by the mesmerizing desert landscape that unfolded before us. Upon reaching our destination, the check-in process at our hostel Casa Algarrobo was seamless, setting the stage for an enchanting desert retreat. The hostel was very basic but cute and the receptionist was very kind.
After getting settled we went to Pulperia Atacama for (as we will find out) one of the best dinners of our time in San Pedro. They served great pasta and lovely salads.
We went to bed early to be sure to get up early the next day for our first day in San Pedro: Starting with a high - we had booked a balloon ride!
Regrettably, we experienced one of our most uncomfortable nights while traveling. Despite the charming hotel, the bed was terrible and the room's weak air conditioning led to rapid overheating. Adding to the inconvenience, our room faced a corridor that remained fully illuminated throughout the night, preventing us from opening the window to cool down. So after a night in the hotel we looked online to change and found a new lovely and perfect (yet more expensive) place to stay at Pascual Andino.
Having come across an online suggestion to experience a hot air balloon over San Pedro Desert, we decided to seize the opportunity and booked the adventure through GetYourGuide. This was a dream my husband had harbored, so we opted for the splurge to partake in this extraordinary once-in-a-lifetime event – a decision that left us far from disappointed.
At 6 AM on an early morning, we were promptly picked up, chauffeured by the company's owner to the ballooning site where the team was already commencing preparations. Sipping hot tea, we marveled at the gradual inflation of the balloon, the entire scene carrying an enchanting aura.
Soon, we climbed into the basket, and with the skilled balloon pilot at the helm, we ascended into the sky. For about 1.5 hours, we soared, witnessing the sun's gentle rise against the desert landscape. Upon our descent, we were greeted with champagne and a desert breakfast, before we made our way back to town.
Opting for this experience at the onset of our journey was a wise choice – not only did it fill us with a sense of magic, but it also bestowed upon us a sweeping panorama of the vast desert expanse that lay ahead, awaiting our exploration in the days to come.
Upon returning to town, we changed hotels and, following check-in, set off to explore our first tourist destinations: Laguna Chaxa and Tebinquinche. We aspontaneously added Tebinquinche, once we left Chaxa, as we still had enough time - optimizing the route you might first stop at Tebinquinche.
Laguna Chaxa (click the link to find the google pin where to drive) a mesmerizing expanse of salt flat and delicate brine pools where graceful flocks of flamingos adorn the tranquil landscape, beckons with its ethereal charm. The trail is more of an easy walk along the lagoon, offering limited "hiking" opportunities, much like Tebinquinche.
Tebinquinche (check the link to finde the google pin where to drive) a captivating seasonal mirror of the sky reflecting dawn and dusk hues amidst its shallow waters, provides a unique and ephemeral spectacle. With fewer visitors – we found ourselves entirely alone – remember to carry ample water due to the intense midday and afternoon heat, even though the walk remains undemanding.
We explored both attractions without pre-booking (Laguna Chaxa can also be reserved online). Upon arriving at the entrance gate, we paid the admission fee and were then given a site overview by the guide – the presentation is in Spanish, but the content is easily comprehensible, even if you're unfamiliar with the language.
Both lagunas undoubtedly justified the visit. While they might lack the vigor and thrill of some of our other pursuits, they still provided a wonderful beginning to our desert adventure :)
For dinner we went to Adobe - a lovely restaurant, with great food and atmosphere in the city center.
Day 3's itinerary demands careful planning and attention to detail.
Begin by driving to Socaire to secure your day's ticket. The "Recepción de Turistas," (use this pin to find the administrative office) a brown container building near the town entrance, issues tickets (use this pin for directions). Some were turned away without prebooking, so ensure you arrive prepared.
Laguna Tuyajto, our initial stop, requires the longest drive – a hidden treasure reflecting mountains in its tranquil waters. Returning along the same route, we reached Mirador de Aguascalientes a vantage point offering panoramic views of the Altiplanic Lagoons. Piedras Rojas, our next destination, presents a trail loop amidst striking copper-colored rocks juxtaposed with the azure lagoon. Given the wind's intensity, layering up was a wise choice. Be mindful to keep the ticket you receive at Piedras Rojas; the ticket provided is also used for the lagunas.
The journey continued toward the twin marvels of the high-altitude desert, Lagunas Miscanti y Miñiques. These expansive crystalline lagoons, situated side by side, boast numerous trails and viewpoints. While some trails run alongside the road, we opted for a drive/walk combination due to fatigue from altitude effects.
Upon returning to San Pedro, we treated ourselves to a splendid dinner at Baltinache, one of the finest experiences during our stay. It's advisable to book by phone, as they offer just two menu options: vegetarian or meat. The cuisine creatively incorporates local ingredients, and the service is both friendly and relaxed.
Our day of exploration commenced before dawn, as we embarked on a journey to Geysers Del Tatio, renowned as one of the world's highest geyser fields.
Some facts you should consider:
Arriving at the main gate, we followed instructions to park and proceeded to the visitor center. Here, we filled out the required forms, settled payments, and obtained our tickets and maps. The anticipation grew as we ventured out to witness a mesmerizing display of steam and water erupting from the earth. As the geysers danced harmoniously with the rising sun, a scene akin to fantasy unfolded before us. The sharp contrast between the chilly air and the boiling geothermal activity held us captive in awe.
While swimming at El Taito previously seemed to have been an option, we had already planned not to do so and rather go to our next destination: Puritama. We however noticed once walking through the premises of El Tatio, that the facilities to take a bath at El Tatio were closed.
So after about 1.5 hours at El tatio, we departed for Puritama Hot Springs (book your tickets here), where our AM entrance slot awaited.
We only now, that sun had risen realized how incredible the drive was - so we took quite some time with sometops to arrive at Puritama.
Arriving around 10 AM, we found ourselves immersed in an oasis amidst the arid landscape. The warm, soothing waters enveloped us, offering a blissful retreat. Nestled amid lush vegetation, tranquility engulfed us as the mineral-rich waters worked their magic, revitalizing our bodies and spirits. Our time at Puritama was a true indulgence, and as noon approached, we set off for the journey back to town. we enjoyed the time so much, we left our phone at the edge of the pools and completely forget to take any pictures :)
A rejuvenating lunch at La Franchuteria a lovely bakery with good food and a great relaxing garden. Reenergized us for our final venture of the day: exploring Valle del Luna.
While initially considering a drive-through to the main attractions, we soon realized that this desert held the promise of an exceptional hiking experience. Upon entering Valle de la Luna, we obtained our official tickets (the office is not on google but it is next to here) and a helpful map from the information center. Not all attractions were accessible, and the staff explained which sites were open for visitation: "The three Marias," resembling sculptures, the abandoned "victoria mines," and the viewpoints "mirador achaches" and "duna mayor" were open at the time of our visit.
Opting to begin at the farthest point (the three Marias) and work our way through the trails, we uncovered breathtaking vistas during hikes at sendero mirador achaces and duna major.
The drive from town to the valley and back took roughly 50 minutes, our decision to allocate time for these hikes was well rewarded.
Around 5 PM, as we were preparing to head back to the car, a sudden and dramatic shift in weather ensued. Stormy clouds gathered, accompanied by thunderstorms. A ranger urgently approached, advising us to immediately vacate Valle de la Luna due to the impending danger of thunderstorms and heavy rain. With a watchful eye, he ensured our safe departure, hastening to assist others who were still hiking. Learning that the ticketing office was closing early for safety, they offered us sunset tickets for the following day as compensation.
This attentive response from the staff left a profound impression on us, overshadowing any disappointment about missing the sunset. We felt really safe and taken care of!
We returned to town, concluding our eventful day with a visit to Pizzería El Charrúa, a laid-back spot offering average pizza (we wouldn't return).
We began our tour at the Fortress at 8 AM and then headed further to Catarpe Valley. At the beginning the biking is already quite demanding due to the bumpy street. Make sure to look for a good mountain bike.
Quitor Fortress is across the river from Catarpe Valley. This Archaeological Park is a bike ride away from San Pedro de Atacama. Parking your bike at the entrance of the Fortress you can pay the entrance fee and then start to hike up the hill. The mountain offers incredible viewpoints along its hillside layout. Well-marked paths and bilingual information boards guide you through the fortress, leading to stunning vistas including Death Valley. You can walk across an incredible path from the Fortress to Puerta del Sol and Mirador Pukara Quitor.
At the entrance of Catarpe Valley you will have to pay the entrance fee and will receive a pamphlet with English highlights and the gatekeeper informs about temporary closures and closing time of the park (which depends on sunset time).
Along the biking trail there are several stopping points and attractions.
The route ends at San Isidro Chapel. The biking was quite exhausting due to the high temperature, so we did not go to the end of the road and the church. The Devil's Throat canyon captivates with its unique beauty. A short hike reveals an otherworldly landscape under leafy trees. An uphill path leads to a viewpoint offering breathtaking 360° views.
Returning around 2pm we took a break at Emporio Andino, with some lovely empanadas and coffee before wondering around town and resting for tonights highlight: stargazing.
Due to many amazing reviews we had booked a stargazing with Jorge (find his website here). Jorge picked us up around 9.30 pm that day, as the visibility had not been perfect the nights before. It was indeed a unique experience. Jorge combines an informative astronomy class with close-up stargazing using high-powered telescopes. Atacama's altitude and clear skies make it an ideal location for stargazing, and you'll witness celestial wonders like the Tarantula Nebula, Saturn's rings, and more. Jorge's collection of telescopes ensures personalized viewing, and his extensive knowledge allows him to quickly locate various celestial objects. The tour is flexible with no minimum group size, providing a potentially private experience (we were four). Alongside the captivating stargazing, the tour includes generous food offerings and drinks.
I obviously cannot comment on other tours but Jorge is truly an expert and passionate about his field. We booked the tour SAT 1(as advised by Jorge via Whatsapp).
We would for sure go on a stargazing tour again.
At our last full day we booked a trip to hike the Cerro Toco Volcano -one of the most beautiful and amazing experiences we have ever done while traveling.
We had booked in town via North Trek, which we felt did an amazing job guiding us to the top.
Embarking on the Cerro Toco hike began with a morning pickup at around 7:00 AM. The two guides picked up a group of 10 people in total from various hostels. The journey by car to the trailhead was marked by snowy peaks and desert expanses. En route, we passed a small observatory, a testament to Atacama's excellent stargazing conditions due to altitude and low precipitation. Arriving at the trailhead, no other cars awaited, providing a welcome escape from the bustling tourist spots.
Our guides briefed us on walking and breathing techniques also advising us on how to
adjust to the altitude, by walking slowly and consciously and drinking regularly. The trail wasn't as steep as anticipated, but the high altitude took us literally the breath away. With deep breaths and a steady pace, we both acclimatized well.
About 10 min into the walk, the guides split our groups in two, to assure that everyone could walk at their pace. We appreciated tremendously, that they strictly observed that the group fully followed their rules, as it made us feel taken care off.
Ice patches appeared after 30 minutes, covering the trail to the summit. Regular breaks were woven into our ascent, offering respite and stunning views of the unique Atacama landscapes.
The final stretch, marked by steep snow and ice, led to our own switchback creation. At the summit of this icy patch, an awe-inspiring panorama awaited, showcasing Laguna Verde and the iconic ALMA telescope array.
The journey, including breaks, took about 2.5 hours from the parking lot.
After eating some lunch and taking some pictures, we started to descent to go back to where we started. Descending took an additional hour, traversing icy trails and gravel. Back in town, we celebrated with wine and joyous vibes.
In summary, the Cerro Toco hike was a cherished highlight in the Atacama Desert. While not overly challenging or lengthy, it provided a rewarding escape from the crowds, leading to the peak of a dormant volcano. The difficulty of this adventure was to acclimatize to the altitude .
For experienced altitude hikers, I wholeheartedly recommend summiting Cerro Toco. It's a thrilling half-day adventure that unveils breathtaking vistas, offering a unique and unforgettable experience.
Returning to San Pedro Atacama we went to relax a little in the hotel and then went to the hotel Baltinache again, because we liked it so much.
After a last night in San Pedro Atacama, we drove our car rental back the next day. Everything went super smoothly and we flew off at lunchtime to Buenos Aires.
Before planning your trip to San Pedro Atacama, it's advisable to check the full moon schedule. During the full moon period, star gazing, one of the prime activities in San Pedro Atacama, isn't possible.
Exploring San Pedro Atacama requires a bit more foresight compared to other destinations. Certain tickets can't be purchased online and must be secured on-site prior to arrival. For your convenience, I've provided a straightforward overview of what you should consider booking in advance in the itinerary above.
Additionally, be mindful of the altitude (see in the itinerary above how we gradually increased the altitude). Gradually acclimatize to higher elevations helps avoiding the discomfort of altitude sickness symptoms. We chose quite a good sequence - even though Day 3 was tough regarding symptoms (sleepiness), it helped us be super fit for the drive to El Tatio. This is the most difficult drive by far - so we would advise to chose the same sequence, being mindful that day 3 will be tough. You need to do two things to reduce the impact of the altitude: Drink loads of water (2 liters a day per person above 4000, 3 liters a day per person above 5000) and buy Coca leaves - they really do help and you get them in almost all hotels, as they are also served for tea).
Driving on your own in San Pedro de Atacama can be challenging. While feasible, it demands solid driving skills, a composed demeanor, and plenty of patience. Don’t cheap out on car insurance – When renting a car, opt for the insurance coverage just in case you end up with windshield chips or you have other issues with the car.