7 DAYS ITINERARY IN PATAGONIA
Day 1: Arrival in El Calafate and Exploring the Scenic Shores
After a scenic flight from Buenos Aires, we landed in El Calafate, a charming town known as the gateway to the wonders of Patagonia. A short taxi ride took us to our Hotel Patagonia Queen.
With a breathtaking view of Lago Argentino beckoning, we decided to take a leisurely walk along the shores of Laguna Nimez. We found the entry fee to the reserve too high, so we opted for a stroll (about 45 min back and fourth) along the lake to Hopy Beach. There is a great and safe walk to follow and a very easy walk.
As the day wound down, we headed to La Zorra Taproom, a local brewery, to sample their craft beers. We had to stock up for the day after. So after a break we took a short walk to Chocolates Patagonia, to get some of the special "El Calafate Chocolate" for the day after (review next day). It is also a cute café, that is very popular, yet we only bought chocolates there. Our last stop was at PANtagonia (review next day), a bakery that provides good sandwiches to go and lunch boxes for hikes and daytrips. Lastly we made sure to have enough cash for the entrance to the National Park the next day (4000 ARS each).
With the evening approaching, we indulged in an early dinner at Pura Vida, a cozy restaurant (book early) known for its delectable cuisine, ensuring we were well-rested for the adventures awaiting us the next day.
Day 2: Majestic Ice Hiking and Delightful Dining Experiences
Rising early, we embarked on a bucket-list experience—a Big Ice Hike and Mini-Trekking tour on the Perito Moreno Glacier.
There are many different programs to chose from on the internet (with ice hiking or without) and it can confuse you quite a bit! However: There is only one company doing these tours, with many operators on the internet advertising them. The main difference for the tours are the time you will spend trekking on the glacier (1.5 or 4h) or whether you will go trekking on the glacier at all.
The significant price tag (350 USD each) of the trip we chose had us contemplate for a while whether to book it or not. I strongly, strongly recommend going on the glacier - the awe-inspiring sight of the towering glacier and the exhilaration of walking on its icy surface made it worth every penny. And thanks to the great guides it is safe. You don't need to be super fit or used to hiking - just make sure you wear good shoes. That's it.
Find out more here: The Tour Details
After a tiring but exhilarating day, we returned to El Calafate by bus in the early evening, allowing ourselves some well-deserved rest before venturing out for dinner. We discovered Morrison Restaurant, a hidden gem with an inviting atmosphere and great food.
Day 3: Arrival in El Chaltén
Our adventure continued as we bid farewell to El Calafate. 8 Am we embarked on a scenic bus journey with ChalténTravel to the charming town of El Chaltén (you can either go to their webpage to book or to busbud - we always used busbud, as it has all options available).
Arriving in El Chaltén around 11 am, we made our way to the Newen Bed & Breakfast, our simple home for the next few days. (El Chaltén is small - so make sure to book your accomodation early. We didn't have much to choose from, when we booked 10 days ahead of our arrival. Newen was ok, but it wasn't great.)
We planned to have a relaxed first day after the exhausting day on Perito Moreno. So, after settling into our accommodations, we couldn't resist the temptation of a late breakfast at Newen's own charming café.
Their croissants were simply divine, the perfect start to our day of exploration. Energized and ready to discover the little town, we strolled down the main roads, taking in the rustic beauty and friendly atmosphere.
With a thirst for a refreshing beverage, we found ourselves at La Cerveceria Chaltén, a local brewery known for its craft beers. We enjoyed a leisurely afternoon, sipping on their creative brews. The small little garden in front is really great to chill, when it is sunny.
As the evening approached, our growling stomachs led us to La Brecha (update May 2023: it says on google they are permanently closed now, which can be because of seasonality- so make sure to check whether they will have reopened). We loved loved loved their Mexican Tacos and judging the audience, we were among locals: there were several tables full of groups of trekking guides we had been on the road with the day before. As you cannot book a table - be sure to be early or be ok to wait for up to an hour to receive a table.
Day 4: Conquering Fitz Roy
Day 4 began with an early start, driven by our eagerness to tackle one of the most iconic hikes in the region (see here for a detailed description of the hike).
We rose before the sun, fueled by a scrumptious breakfast at Newen. Make sure to get some of their homemade sandwiches for the road - we highly recommend trying the pesto one! it's Yummi!
Setting off at around 7:30 am, we embarked on the challenging trek to Fitz Roy (Or click the link for the AllTrails Hiking Map).
After approximately 5 hours of hiking, we finally reached the viewpoint overlooking Fitz Roy. The sight of the majestic peak, famous for being on the Patagonia Logo and icy lake of Laguna de Los Tres was a sight to behold. Even though unfortunately we had quite some fog restricting some of the view - it was still worth it!
After a break, enjoying our sandwiches, we made our way back to El Chaltén, arriving around 4.30 pm.
The exhaustion of the hike was quickly forgotten as we found ourselves at La Zorra, (yes the same chain as in El Calafate - they expanded successfully for a reason) a popular spot among hikers. We celebrated our achievement with a well-deserved beer (get the honey one!). As night fell, our appetites led us to Maffia, a charming Italian restaurant, with a surprisingly good wine selection from Mendozas great wineries. Make sure you book this place before - it is popular and fills quickly.
Day 5: Relax!
After a challenging hike the previous day, we decided to take a well-deserved rest day on our fifth day in Patagonia.
We started the day with a leisurely breakfast at our own Newen.
In the late morning, we treated ourselves to a soothing massage at Spa Yaten. It was the perfect way to unwind and rejuvenate our tired muscles.
As in many of the places in El Chalten, make sure you book in advance. They are filling up quickly.
Feeling refreshed, we ventured to Mathilda Resto Bar Casa de Té, enticed by the promise of an incredible lemon cake. We were not disappointed. The cake was a burst of citrusy goodness, and we paired it with aromatic mate tea. We used the time to plan our next travel steps, booking some flights and trips for the travels after El Chalten.
For dinner, we decided to try La Tapera, a popular restaurant known for its Argentinean cuisine and layed back atmposphere.
Day 6: Hiking to Laguna Torre and travel back to el Calafate
Day six began with another breakfast at Newen, ensuring we had plenty of energy for the day's activities.
Our destination was Laguna Torre, a glacial lake surrounded by towering peaks and pristine wilderness.
The hike from El Chalten to Laguna Torre is a captivating adventure in Patagonia. The trail spans approximately 18 kilometers (11 miles) round trip and takes about 4.5 hours to complete (both ways). As you embark from El Chalten, the path winds through diverse landscapes, including forests and open areas, offering glimpses of the majestic Mount Fitz Roy along the way. As you approach Laguna Torre, the scenery becomes even more awe-inspiring, with the highlight being the stunning Cerro Torre, a towering granite peak, and the tranquil glacial lake below. Make sure to bring essential hiking gear, water and snacks.
.After finishing the hike, we caught a bus from El Chaltén back to El Calafate at 5 pm.
We checked into Posada Larsen, a lovely small hotel that provided a cozy retreat after a day spent in nature's embrace. The staff was friendly and accommodating, ensuring our stay was comfortable and enjoyable.
As evening fell, we sought out a unique dining experience and found ourselves at Volpi Bistrot Pertas Adentro. This hidden gem offered an intimate and private setting with only a handful of tables. The menu boasted innovative and artfully presented dishes, each bite a revelation of flavors and textures. It was a fine dining experience that left a lasting impression.