We had planned to take the ferry at 2.30pm (there is one at 7.30 AM and one at 2.30 PM) to transfer to Isla Isabela. Before, because we loved Tortuga Bay so much, we went back to Tortuga Day for a half day of beach and kayaking (see here my post about it).
After half a beach day we packed and made our way to the harbor to catch our ferry.
The inter-island journey comes at the cost of $30 each way, a fair investment for the adventure that awaited us. You can secure your ferry tickets in advance through online booking or opt for the last-minute approach by visiting one of the many tour agencies scattered across Puerto Ayora.
There are numerous online websites to book and so are travel agencies. At the end of the day- you will get to Isla Isabela somehow :)
The initial leg of our journey to Santa Isabela involved a brisk water taxi ride that ferried us out to where the main ferry was anchored (1 USD per person, not included in the ferry ticket).
Upon reaching the ferry, we were greeted by a medium-sized speed boat adorned with cushioned seating around the perimeter. Opting for a seat in the middle was our strategy, offering protection from both the sun's rays and the gentle ocean spray. This vantage point also provided a smoother ride, sparing us from potential sea sickness.
Nevertheless, a preemptive dose of some kind of sea sick pill is advisable.
We were super lucky during our trip to Isla Isabela to even see Dolphins, so stay attentive and watch out!
Upon our arrival at Isla Isabela, the Albemarle Hotel welcomed us with open arms. Nestled right on the beach, the hotel offered the promise of a serene seaside stay.
With the sun hanging high in the sky, we embraced the fullness of the day. Swimming and unwinding on the beach became our chosen activities, allowing us to soak in the beauty of Isla Isabela's coastline.
As the day evolved into evening, we ventured out to Gracias Madre Galápagos for the best dinner during our 8 days in Galapagos. A super nice owner and food to die for. Don't get fooled by the negative reviews - they are addressing the cost, but after some bad experience we happily paid the premium.
Half Day at the Beach of Isla Isabela
Our morning on Isla Isabela commenced with the allure of its pristine beaches. After breakfast we went for a swim right in front of our hotel before chilling for some time at the lovely beachside and slurping some fresh coconut juice at Iguana Point.
Cabo Rose, Los Tuneles Snorkel Tour
In the afternoon, our adventure continued as we embarked on a tour to Los Tuneles and Cabo Rose for a captivating snorkeling experience. Revered as not only Isla Isabela's premier day tour but potentially one of the Galápagos archipelago's most extraordinary snorkeling destinations, this excursion promised a spectacle of marine wonders that defied imagination.
Our journey into the underwater realm commenced at 2 pm, where we gathered at Puerto Villamil's passenger pier. As the anticipation grew, the speedboat awaited us, joined by fellow adventurers and a team of experts—a knowledgeable guide, an experienced captain, and a diligent first mate.
The boat ride, spanning around 1.5 to 2 hours, unfolded upon tranquil waters that granted us a remarkably smooth passage. The gentle sway of the boat proved to be no challenge, possibly due to our prior experiences with scuba diving and island-to-island ferry voyages. A piece of advice for those who might experience motion sickness: consider bringing along seasickness medication to ensure a comfortable journey.
Upon our arrival at the remarkable Los Tuneles, our aquatic expedition commenced. The underwater universe unfurled before our eyes, revealing a profusion of life that surpassed our loftiest expectations. Immersed within the crystalline waters, we were greeted by the enchanting presence of a nursery of black-tip reef sharks, graceful sea turtles, and majestic white-tip reef sharks.
As we concluded our snorkeling escapade, we returned to the boat and transitioned to another facet of the adventure—exploration on land. Our eyes were captivated by the sight of the tunnels' terrestrial counterparts. The surface showcased striking lava-rock formations adorned with lush vegetation and opuntia cacti, juxtaposed against the renowned blue-footed boobies.
Our journey continued with a stop at the islet known as "Islote La Union," where we encountered more of the captivating blue-footed boobies.
Back on Isla Isabela we went back to the hotel to change and out to dinner.
Dinner at Royal Rock
As the sun began its descent, casting a warm hue across Isla Isabela's landscape, our adventure transitioned to a culinary exploration. The day's splendors set the stage for a well-deserved feast, leading us to Royal Rock for a dinner. Amidst the relaxed ambiance, we indulged in an array of local fish dishes, sipped our cocktails and were looking across the calm sea.
Getting picked up by our tour very early we were driven by a bus to the parking lot where the hike to Sierra Negra would start. Our charismatic naturalist guide, a laid-back Spanish fellow, took charge and registered our group of around 15 people at the entrance hut.
Around 40 minutes into the hike, we encountered a small viewpoint. After an additional 30 minutes, we reached the main caldera viewpoint, revealing the enormity of the massive crater—a sight that truly took our breath away.
After soaking in the spectacle, we continued our trek towards Chico Volcano. This hike was a series of continual highlights; the landscape transformed as we departed the viewpoint. Gradually shifting from green to brown, and then to black and red, the journey climaxed with a vibrant display of colors upon reaching Chico Volcano.
En route, our guide pointed out vents from the volcano and collapsed lava tunnels, offering insights into the rocks' mineral compositions. As we moved beyond the orange hues, the landscape transformed into a desolate terrain of red and black, resembling a post-apocalyptic realm molded by nature's unforgiving forces.
After a 2-kilometer trek, we finally stood at the summit of Chico Volcano. The view before us was a spectacle of colors and textures—shades of red, orange, white, and yellow painted the landscape in a surreal display. It was as if we had landed on Mars, a realm of alien beauty. The brisk wind encouraged us to find shelter, where we indulged in a satisfying lunch accompanied by the stunning vista of Isabela's northeastern side and view on Fernandina Island and the Wolf Volcano in the distance.
Concha de Perla Swim
Returning from the hike around 2pm we stayed at the harbor to walk for a Snorkel at Concha de Perla. Unfortunately the view was so bad, we could barely see anything leading to us leaving Concha after only 15 min of a cold swim.
Dinner at Soy Bonsai
As the day wound down, we found ourselves at Soy Bonsai for a delightful dinner.
This culinary gem treated us to an array of flavors that tantalized our taste buds.
The next day we woke up very early bike to El Muro de las Lagrimas. Due to the heat is is highly advised to leave as early as 6 AM! You thank me later :) Also take along AT LEAST 1liter of water each!
Starting from Puerto Villamil, we directly pedaled to the end of the bike trail: To El Muro de las Lágrimas, a poignant reminder of the penal colony's history and the harsh conditions endured by its prisoners.
We parked our bikes and after studying the remainder of the wall we took the hike of to the viewpoint "radar". Amazing vistas up to the beachside were the reward of a quite demanding climb up.
As we pedaled back, we were greeted by the iconic Galápagos tortoises leisurely traversing the path, providing us with an intimate encounter with these majestic creatures.
A few pedals down the road, a starcase ascends to a another viewpoint - definitely the radar viewpoint we just came from was offering much more than this one.
A next option to stop is the fascinating tunnel formed by intertwined tree branches led us to a tranquil mangrove area, where we couldn't resist taking a moment to unwind amidst the serene surroundings.
Walking to the seashore on your next stops leads you to a jagged coastline, where you can see pelicans and sealions.
Continuing our journey, Playa del Amor beckoned with its striking contrast of black lava stones against golden sands—an inviting spot to take a refreshing swim.
The green lagoons, known as Pozas Verdes, revealed an enchanting oasis teeming with marine iguanas and graceful flamingos, a true haven of natural beauty.
Another short walk leads you to a small beach, where the allure of spotting sea lions, sharks, iguanas, and marine birds tempted us.
Pozas Salinas & Poza de Los Diablos
A detour to the salt lagoons added a touch of elegance to our journey, as we witnessed the graceful Galápagos flamingos going about their fishing routines.
The cycling journey took us about 4 hours to complete, although we gladly lingered at each stop to fully absorb the island's wonders.
Even though painfully hot, we enjoyed this bike ride a lot.
In the afternoon, we embarked on our final tour, the Las Tintoreras snorkeling experience. The name itself is derived from the abundant presence of White Tip Sharks that inhabit the area. This mesmerizing location offers a snorkeling adventure like no other, guiding visitors through narrow lava channels. Beneath the waves, a thriving marine world unfolds, with a multitude of sharks gracefully swimming below and marine iguanas perched atop rocks. The scene is further enriched by the presence of Galápagos Penguins, playful sea lions, vibrant Sally Lightfoot Crabs, and serene sea turtles, all scattered amidst the intricate volcanic formations.
Regrettably, this tour happened to be one of the more touristy experiences in the Galapagos. However, despite that, we had the fortune of spotting a penguin – a rare sighting in March. Despite the higher tourist activity, the unique marine life encounters made our visit to Las Tintoreras a memorable conclusion to our explorations in the Galapagos.
For dinner we went back to our favored restaurant Gracias Madre Galápagos for another round of great tacos.
After this last day - our day after meant to travel back by Ferry to Baltra and flying of to Quito for our next adventure in Mexico.